WHERE TO EAT

An Apostle of Food
For 25 years, Nick’s has been an icon of fine dining in Jackson.

By Lisa Flynt
Photos by Thomas Beck

Nick Apostle is like the Julia Child of Jackson. Much like Child shaped the way America eats today, Nick shaped the emer- ging food scene in Jackson 25 years ago and continues to be an icon of dining in the area.
Having grown up in the world of restaurants, Nick knew the level of effort required for daily operations and success. “I was living in Little Rock helping with family business transactions, and made the decision to move my family back to Jackson,” notes Nick. “I found this location and couldn’t figure out why two restaurants had failed here. I was determined to make it a success.” He opened Nick’s in December of 1983 and will celebrate 25 years of business this year.
“When I moved to Jackson,” recalls Nick, “one vendor was selling ‘redfish’ to everyone – but it was actually drum, not redfish.” His focus on acquiring true redfish and educating consumers about the difference eventually raised the standards overall for fresh seafood in the area. “You had to drive to New Orleans to get real redfish,” Nick continues, “but now good, fresh fish is more readily available from a variety of sources.”
Nick notes that the tricks of serving quality seafood include taking time to handle the seafood properly and knowing how to cut the fish. “Cutting fish is therapeutic,” he smiles. “It gives me time to think things through. Plus, sometimes you just have to get in there with the knife to make sure you’re getting the presentation and thickness desired.”
Personal drive along with a knack for investing in and understanding people are two other factors that contribute to his success at Nick’s. Nick knows one speed – full throttle – and he surrounds himself with people who share similar qualities of intense drive, a workhorse mentality, and a very focused approach to the immediate task at hand.
The kitchen team and wait staff are each held accountable to high service standards. In the kitchen, Nick has developed a well-orchestrated system for getting the food out in a manner that ensures the highest quality. “There are no wasted steps,” he explains. “Each part of the process is mapped out and followed exactly. Each person knows his role and how to execute efficiently. Without the process, the food quality would be impacted in a negative way.”
“Likewise, the wait staff know how to read customers’ needs and respond in a way that makes the customers comfortable,” continues Nick. “I am fortunate to have highly-skilled teams on both sides, from Derek George who is now more chef de cuisine while I play the role of executive chef, to Amos who’s been in the kitchen for 25 years and wait staff who have spent long careers here shaping the dining experience.”
Nick understands the key is giving people what people want when they dine out, which means still having favorites available and offering flexibility when the menu might change. “People are comfortable with classics like the veal piccata or redfish, but they want a twist,” describes Nick. “When they come out to dinner, they want to relax and enjoy themselves and not worry whether they’ll like the special. They trust that we’ll give them their favorites, but with a Nick’s slant.”
Even with 25 years of success, a well-oiled machine that produces consistent product and service, and a solid kitchen staff to back him up, Nick remains passionately involved in the daily operations of Nick’s, from menu changes to collaborating on dinner specials, and interacting with guests. When asked what’s next in his focus, he smiles broadly and declares that he plans to teach his grandkids to fish and hunt and be around a lot to help raise them. With his deep knowledge of food and evident passion for being immersed in the world of food, you can bet that he will not be too far removed from the action and intense dedication that has made Nick’s the beacon of fine dining that it is today. o

Nick’s :: 501 Lakeland Dr # 101, Jackson
601.981.8017 www.nicksrestaurant.com
Lunch: Monday-Friday 11:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.
Dinner: Monday-Thursday 5:30 - 9:30 p.m.

Friday & Saturday 5:30 - 10:00 p.m.